SPAIN: SAN FERMÃN AND THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS Eighty years after Hemingway immortalized the weeklong celebration of Pamplona’s patron saint in The Sun Also Rises, the stampede of enraged 1,300-pound bulls still occupies an exalted spot on the risk-lists of adrenaline junkies the world over. Each July, the northern Spanish town swells to twice its size with foreigners and paisanos seeking days filled with bullfights, flamenco dancing, fireworks, and three of the most heart-wrenching minutes of their lives: the release of the bulls and the ensuing chase through the streets. Come to Pamplona, and sleep on the hill behind the sangria vendor if you must, but when Mother Nature throws the light switch on, exposing isolated scenes of drunken depravity throughout the city, it’s time to lace up the shoes or take cover behind the gates. ST TIP: Right after the daddy bulls have run, take a seat in the Plaza de Toros to watch a ring full of momentary matadors get abused by their spirited offspring. WHEN: July 6 to 14. WHERE: Pamplona, Spain. HOW MUCH: Free. MORE INFO: sanfermin.com. HUNGARY: SZIGET FESTIVAL Geneva may have the United Nations, but Budapest has the united nations of music: Sziget, the largest music festival in Europe. Every summer for 13 years, dozens of acts from all over the world from headliners like Franz Ferdinand to Malian funk, Norwegian hardcore, French trance, Yiddish hip-hop, and even American ska converge on Ãbuda Island, in the middle of the Danube, to kick out the jams. Despite the hundreds of thousands of music fans, Sziget still retains a laidback atmosphere that’s inimical to sellouts. And don’t worry about any language barriers with most of the world jamming together the beats are international. ST TIP: Camping is free on the island for everyone, but show up on the 9th to make sure you stake out a space far from the main tent or you’ll never get any sleep. WHEN: August 10 to 17, 2005. WHERE: Budapest, Hungary. HOW MUCH: Weeklong tickets, which include camping permits, are only 100. One-day tickets are about 15. MORE INFO: sziget.hu. SCOTLAND: EDINBURGH FRINGE FESTIVAL This eclectic offshoot of the annual Edinburgh International Festival began in 1947 when a group of acting companies, snubbed by the “high-art” event, sought out a less-pretentious alternative to display their talents. Augusts in the Scottish capital are now dominated by the Fringe and the thousands who flock to the world’s largest performing-arts festival. More than 1,500 daily shows offer spectators a chance to take in a healthy balance of Shakespeare, stand-up comedy, and Tibetan yak-milk gargling. Venues range from classy show halls to back-alley pubs thick with the smell of malt whiskey and deep-fried Mars bars, a truly egalitarian event for the culturally deprived. ST TIP: Pick up the daily Scotsman for reliable reviews, and keep an eye out for two-forone specials. WHEN: August 7 to 29, 2005 (begins the first Sunday of every August). WHERE: Edinburgh, Scotland. HOW MUCH: Tickets from £5. MORE INFO: edfringe.com. SPAIN: LA TOMATINA Myriad explanations exist for the origin of this massive tomato battle: a peaceful parade gone amok, an impulsive response to a novice horn player, an old woman’s reaction to the rising price of produce. No one seems to care anymore the important thing is that every year on the last Wednesday of August, Buñol, a sleepy Spanish village of 9,000, plays host to the world’s largest food fight. It begins like any good Spanish street party should: with a giant leg of cured ham dangling from a greased pole. Once the pole is scaled and the porcine treat removed, the officials relinquish 125,000 kilos of tomatoes to the ravenous crowd. What follows is a war of apocalyptic dimensions: a solid hour of tomato- hucking in which no one is safe from the pulpy projectiles. In the dwindling moments of the fight, the battleground looks like an orgy sponsored by Prego. ST TIP: Book Valencia accommodations early, and bring a change of clothes. WHEN: August 29, 2005. WHERE: Buñol, Spain, a 30-minute bus ride from Valencia. HOW MUCH: Free. MORE INFO: lahoya.net/tomatina. PLANNING ON BEING IN EUROPE FOR THE SUMMER but can’t make it to any of these events? No worries. Check out whatsonwhen.com for a detailed list of summer festivals across Europe.