THE SUN IS SETTING SLOWLY OVER DARWIN HARBOUR at Mindil Beach, as if putting on a strip-tease for the mobs of people on the shore. Australians love watching the sun go down, and this Thursday-night ritual is almost mandatory in Darwin. The colors turn from a hazy orange to lavender, pink and a deeper purple before going back to another shade of pink. But the sunset only marks the beginning of the night. On the other side of the sand you can hear the didgeridoos and guitar players at Mindil Beach Sunset Markets. Thousands of hungry market-goers walk like salmon up rivers of tourists and locals trying to decide if they want a fresh fruit salad, an Indonesian curry, lamb kebobs, or a trip to the Roadkill stand for possum, kangaroo, or even a croc satay. Vendors sell an array of international foods and souvenirs. You will never see this many people on the street in downtown Darwin, and you won’t find another chance to get a meal this cheap. Geographically speaking Darwin is closer to Jakarta than Sydney, and sports a large Southeast Asian influence. It is the capital city of the Northern Territory and most people refer to the area as the Top End. Darwin is known for being one of the more multicultural cities in Australia, and prides itself on having a young population of 100,000 people representing more than 50 different nationalities. In town you’ll find that the city runs at a relaxed pace. At the center of all the downtown action is the best hostel in town, Malealuca on Mitchell. It’s located across the street from the transit center and is surrounded by pubs, restaurants and a number of conveniences for travelers, like grocery stores, camera shops, travel agents and a money exchange. What makes Malealuca the best is its rooftop recreation area. There is a two-level pool, sun deck, waterfall Jacuzzi and its own bar. The rooms are clean and air-conditioned, and the staff is friendly and helpful. Backpackers arrive in Darwin by bus or by plane, and it’s common for city slickers to take one look around Darwin and ask, “Is this it?” But the fact that tourism is one of the main industries in Darwin makes it an easy place for travel virgins to get their feet wet before moving on to other parts of Australia. Don’t be fooled, however. The Top End is not for wimps. There are bugs, crocs, and humidity that could easily be considered a beast all on its own. Many people visit Darwin as a means of getting easy access to the Outback. Just a few hours out of town are some of Australia’s biggest and best national parks. While it wouldn’t be strange to hear some Australians express shock that you’re going to Darwin at all, others will drool at the mere mention of your destination choice. —Jennifer Leo