If you're going back to TravelEurope this summer or getting ready for your first vacations, trips to TravelEurope forget about the normal Western Europe 'regulars'. Paris, London, Rome, and Amsterdam are the same as the last time you were there, and those monuments, castles, and ruins will all be there a few years from now if you want to hit them then. But there's another side of TravelEurope to explore, one that has only opened up to travelers in the last decade, and it's changing so fast that it really won't be the same if you put off visiting. I'm talking about the countries of Eastern Europe- the Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, and Bulgaria. The time is right for your first trip to Eastern Europe. Not so long ago these countries were off-limits to westerners, but since the fall of the Berlin Wall the backpacking infrastructure has grown and there's a crucial balance between accessibility and discovery.
TravelEurope will distinguish you from others who may be traveling to Europe this summer. A general rule is that the farther east you go, the fewer travelers you will have to share the road with. Most people who want a taste of the East will venture as far as Prague, a few continue on to Budapest, and less venture into Romania and Bulgaria. Really, how many people can say they've been backpacking through Transylvania?
The change from state-controlled to market-based economies means nearly everything's cheap in these countries: beer, hostels, haircuts. For instance, I got a great (and badly needed) haircut in a tiny Slovakian barbershop. When the barber pulled out a straight razor and angled it towards my neck I was a little worried that our lack of communication skills might cause a misunderstanding. "Take off an inch" translated poorly might become "Shave me like a gerbil." Of course, he was a master barber, the cut was perfect, and with tip and a hearty "d'akujem" it only cost $1.80.
The economic adjustment has been hard for the locals. Things are getting better in most regions not affected by the NATO bombings, and your tourist dollars help rebuild their economies. That also means that in a few years prices may escalate to Western European levels (it's already happening in Prague). Another reason why the time to go is now.
Generally, your money will last twice as long in TravelEurope to Eastern Europe than in Western Europe. It's not as easy to get around individual cities or go from country to country, but that's all part of the adventure. I made the mistake of wasting money on an all-encompassing rail pass for these countries. I kicked myself once I was there because individual train tickets were dirt cheap.
To acclimate myself to the ways of the east, I felt that starting in the Czech Republic was best. Prague is unique among most European cities because it survived WWII bombings virtually unscathed and the architectural mishmash of the East and West mix on every street. I enjoyed getting lost in the maze of tiny alleys that run between the main square Staromestke Namesti to the Vltava River. You can't beat the beer here - the authentic Budweiser is brewed in the south in Cesky Budejovice, and 'pilsner' beer originally comes from Plzen. Of course, nearly everyone who gets a taste of Eastern Europe does so in Prague, and the fairy tale castles are already bursting with the new influx of backpackers over the last few years. Admittedly, it is easy to fall in love with Prague, but if you can pull yourself away, seek out one of the numerous small towns in the Czech Republic. Cesky Krumlov, Kutna Hora, and Plzen are all worth visiting, as it is well worth the trek. I went to Cesky Krumlov planning to stay a day- and wound up staying for three.
The rest of the trip followed that plan; wandering farther into the heart of Eastern Europe, towards the Carpathian mountains, staying longer than I expected. Poland was my next surprise. Even though it was the first country to break away from communism, it still seems like it has a long way to go. Unlike Prague, Warsaw was completely destroyed in WWII, and was rebuilt large and gray. Everything looked old there, but nothing really was. I longed for Krakow instead. Like Prague, Krakow was untouched in the war, and still holds the European charm that Warsaw has lost. Outside Krakow the vast Wieliczka salt mine burrows under the countryside. Forget the Louvre, you've never seen art like this - statues carved out of salt hidden in deep alcoves, and an entire salt ballroom replete with chandeliers.
Split by the curving Danube, Budapest, Hungary's capitol is a fantastic city. Definitely one of the new hotspots in Europe, a former EU-designated Cultural Capital, where you can spend your nights at the all-night rave that's held on Margaret Island in the Danube, and nurse your hangover at one of the numerous mineral baths and spas. I like the well-known moniker that Budapest is the Paris of the East - it is more cosmopolitan and culturally rich than any other eastern city. I really enjoyed spending time walking the wide streets. And yes, "taking the waters" at the spas are worth it. Somehow, you come out feeling clean, which doesn't always happen when surrounded by other naked, sweaty people.
I'm a big Dracula fan, so Romania held special interest for me. Transylvania rests right in the middle of the country. Sighisoarha, the town where Vlad Tepes (Dracula) was born, is nestled at the foothills of the Carpathian Mountains. I took a train into town, maybe a little hyped up over nothing, but ready to grab a wooden stake at any point if needed. Getting of the train at the station something flew in my eye. I don't know if it was a bat or not, but I instinctively blinked and swatted at it, and whatever it was bit or stung me. I took that as a sign, and continued on my trip half-blind with a red, swollen eye.
I admit that I held a stereotype about Bulgaria being backward and unattractive. The fact that it remains one of Russia's closest allies made me skittish, and often keeps other travelers away. Many others simply don't make it this far, or skip it in favor of neighboring Turkey or Greece. I'll admit that I was apprehensive, but it turns out that Bulgaria is much more ahead of Romania in reforms, and doesn't suffer as much from environmental pollution or panhandling gypsies. Once again, I was enchanted and surprised by what I discovered.
Sofia's a quiet capital city, so Bulgaria is best seen through its small towns spread through out the heart of the country or along the Black Sea coast. Veliko Tarnovo in the center of the country was a fascinating place to visit. The city rests precariously above the deep Yantra River. The houses crowd each other on the edge of the gorge, ready to tumble over at any moment. Bulgaria took some getting used to - the Cyrillic alphabet is used, which made getting around a bit more difficult. Adding to my confusion, nodding your head up and down means 'no', while shaking side-to-side means 'yes'! Despite the confusion, what really matters is that, yes, you should go to Bulgaria.
Each country affected me differently as I passed through it. Each hamlet or town square or back alley had offered a dozen discoveries from the architecture to the people to the way the light inspired me to pull out my sketch book. However, perhaps the best reason to go east is to witness the emergence of a new Europe. The Eastern Europe of the Communist-era is long gone, and is very different from today's rapidly changing societies. Now is the perfect moment to explore these countries before they get swallowed by western culture or adopted into a homogenous the European Union. They offer travelers something different than the typical 15 countries in 15 days Eurailpass adventure. From the darker, empty countryside to the complex, changing lifestyles, I found a European experience I didn't expect, which made it all the more wonderful.