New Zealand - A Twelve Step Program for Adrenaline Junkies
By: Carly Blatt (justin) 2006.12.12
Quick- pick an activity. Anything. Chances are, it's available somewhere in New Zealand. Ever fancied swimming with dolphins? Going black water rafting? Hiking on Sir Edmund Hillary's favorite trails? Perhaps your tastes extend to the wilder side. Jumping out of planes, diving off of bridges, hang gliding, river boarding, ATV riding, helicoptering in to kayak Class V rapids, deep-powder snowboarding, and just about everything else that'll get your adrenaline pumping are waiting.
Contrary to popular belief, you don't have to be an extreme daredevil to engage in these activities. Or insane. In fact, most who participate aren't thrill junkies but regular backpackers like myself looking to add a bit more spice to their trip. Many travelers don't necessarily have plans to scare themselves silly and have a blast doing it, but once they touch New Zealand soil, the adrenaline bug bites hard and many quickly find themselves drawn to adventure sports like moths to the flame.
It started innocuously. I had a few conversations with people who had been skydiving. I decided to take the plunge based on the idea that "they're alive, so it must be okay." That logic permeates the backpacker culture in New Zealand once you meet enough sane people who have pushed their limits, you start to wonder Why not? I'd never considered half the activities I ended up doing. But as I traveled around both the North and South Islands and realized I might never have the opportunity to, say, go river boarding again, I decided I owed it to myself to take the plunge, literally.
BUNGY JUMPING
The modern bungy jump was born in New Zealand (but based on a ritual from the island of Vanuatu), and I figured it only appropriate to experience this particular rush in the bungy capital of the world. This is the one activity I still get jittery remembering. To this day, I'm convinced that I was somehow pushed off the ledge because I don't recall having had the courage to actually jump. It took me nearly three days to work up the nerve to go and it was by far the most nerve-racking activity for one key reason - I had to be the one to actually dive off the platform. Every survival instinct tries to kick in and tell your body that it is not, in fact, a smart idea to leap off a bridge with only a rubber band to hold you. It's a matter of fighting those demons, overcoming all logical thought, and just going for it.
The adrenaline rush is unlike anything you can imagine the straight free-all may last only a few seconds, but the high will stay with you for weeks. I don't remember the first second of the fall - I must've blocked it out. I felt a sense of complete weightlessness and freedom. The bungy snapped me back up inches from the surface of the lake, and then another free-fall sensation kicked in as I plunged again. Once the bouncing stops, and your stomach rights itself, you'll either be lowered into a boat or tugged back up to the platform. Although bungy jumping might just require the most courage of any activity you try, the sensation is all the more rewarding. Bungy jumping varies greatly in price depending on the height of the bungy and the location. You'll find the largest concentration of sites in Queenstown, including the highest bungy in New Zealand and the original bungy site at the Kawarau Bridge.
Bungy Info
TANDEM SKYDIVING
Call me crazy, but I didn't find skydiving all that scary, and nearly everyone I spoke with about this agreed. It's a great rush, sure, and definitely worth doing, but on the whole it isn't as frightening as people expect. Of course, most people expect a near-death experience, so the bar is set high. The experience starts by putting on a jumpsuit and learning how you'll exit the plane and land. The tandem master (the guy you'll be strapped to) leads you into a tiny plane, often with a few other jumpers. I think I was in denial the whole flight up, and it hardly occurred to me that I wasn't leaving the plane the same way I entered it. The only part of skydiving that truly made me question my sanity was the exact second that I realized it was time to jump. As we hit our jumping altitude of 12,000 feet, I slipped my goggles down, felt my heart leap into my throat, and allowed the tandem master to edge us to the "door" of the plane (in some planes, there's not even a door; in others, it's more of a sliding plastic sheet). The world was whizzing by, and we were going to jump into it.
It was at that point that I started to wonder how embarrassing it would be if I just stayed in the plane. But the comforting (or terrifying) part about tandem skydiving is you know the tandem master won't let you chicken out. Before I could think too long, I smiled for the camera perched on the wing, held onto my harness, tucked my legs and arms in, leaned my head back, felt the tandem master on my back let go of the plane, and then we were falling. No, not falling, more like flying. It wasn't the free-fall sensation I got from bungy jumping, but more of a feeling of whipping through the air. The free-fall was about 45 seconds from 12,000 feet, though it seemed much longer. The sound was almost deafening as the wind rushed past at 125 miles per hour. The ground still seemed so far away, as if I'd never reach it. When the chute finally opened, it was almost a disappointment. The rush was over and I felt a sharp tug as I abruptly slowed down. We gradually floated to the ground, taking in the astounding New Zealand countryside of lush greenery, mountains dusted with snow, and a glistening lake, with a true 360-degree angle.
Tandem Skydiving Info
TANDEM HANG GLIDING
So now maybe you've had the free-fall, and the bungy plunge, but how would you actually like to control what you're doing in the sky instead of just hurtling through the air with a wind-blown grin? Imagine soaring freely across a pure blue sky, looking down with a true bird's-eye view of the world below. Hang gliding might just be the best way to take a little control of your aerial adventures.
On a whim, I'd made a pact to go hang gliding with a friend I'd met traveling. As the day arrived, we found ourselves curiously calm. Blame it on the fact that we'd both recently been skydiving and had done so many other adventurous activities that the prospect of hang gliding seemed tame in comparison. That happens to many travelers in New Zealand they start to truly realize that adrenaline is a drug, and an activity that would've normally made their knees shake uncontrollably seems instead like a ride on the Matterhorn at Disneyland.
We drove with the hang gliding instructors to a take-off area high in "The Remarkables" ski area. We parked the van and suited up in our extremely stylish jumpsuits, neck gaiters, helmets, and gloves. It was summer, but at that altitude it can be cold. The instructor I was going tandem with tied me in and briefly went over what we'd be doing once we were in the air, then told me that we'd be running down the mountain to take off.
"Ready to fly?" he asked. I nodded, and before I knew it, we were running down the incline and my legs were off the ground after only a few steps. Once airborne, I pressed my feet against a rope ladder that allowed me to extend my legs fully and still be comfortable. After a few minutes, he let me take control of the glider. It seemed fairly easy to control. Lean to the right, the glider moves right, pull a control bar towards you, we go faster. I'm sure it would've been scary if I had to control it without the instructor there as backup, but it was an exhilarating experience to feel like I had the power to pilot our flight.
We take off at an altitude of about 2,000 feet and flew about 300 feet above the ground during the 15-minute flight. We could see the whole of Queenstown: a spectacular view of the Remarkable mountain range, Lake Wakatipu, the Shotover River, and the Kawarau River. Since your body is parallel to the ground, it's even easier to enjoy the view because it's directly below you. I've done a few "bird-like" activities and this was by far the most like actually flying. I was able to enjoy the view in an entirely different way than during skydiving because we used air pockets to stay in the air for a long period of time. Hang gliding is the perfect activity to get a small dose of adrenaline and a giant helping of unforgettable scenery.
Tandem Hang Gliding Info
RIVER BOARDING
Like body boarding? Like white water rafting? Ever wanted to combine the two? Adventure and water sports enthusiasts can do just that by body boarding down the Kawarau River near Queenstown. Armed with a full-body wetsuit, water boots, life jacket, helmet, flippers and body board, I went with an organized group to the Kawarau Gorge area, where we pulled over to the side of the road, and hiked down to the class 2 and 3 rapids. We practiced learning how to move the body board in the rapids, and get into and out of eddies. Then we attempted to kick our way into the center of the river-this was the hardest part, because you're attempting to kick against a strong current without letting it take a hold of you and slam you against any rocks. Once we got into the center of the river, the fun began.
We rode the current for a while, and then hit our first rapid. To go through the rapids, you hold onto the top handle of the board with one hand, and grip the lower side with your other hand. The sensation is a bit like going against the waves when you're boogie boarding in the ocean. A few of our group members wiped out, but recovered quickly. One of the most intense aspects of river boarding is that you're at the mercy of the river, which is both terrifying and exciting.
Riverboarding Info
BLACK WATER RAFTING
Admit it, when you first saw the movie Goonies you were envious of all their underground adventures: playing in waterfalls, exploring caves, swimming in murky water. You can experience it all (and then some) with Black Water rafting in Waitomo on the North Island. This is a little tamer than some of the other adrenaline-pumping activities on the islands, unless of course, you're not comfortable on underground rivers in complete darkness.
Waitomo is known for its caves and glow worms and the folks at Black Water Rafting offer a variety of trips to suit your taste for adventure. I opted for the five-hour "Black Water Rafting II : The Sequel" trip, which included abseiling (rappelling) into the cave, a "flying fox", a high jump, time to float on an inner tube through the underground river system to view glowworms, and a waterfall climb.
The rappel into the cave felt like I was entering another world. Claustrophobics would be wise to stay away from this particular tight squeeze. Once we'd lowered ourselves fully, we turned off the miner's lights on our helmets, and did a flying fox in pure darkness I was strapped onto a zipline and sent flying across to the other side of the cavern. I don't know why they call it a flying fox, since it felt more like a bat navigating in the darkness and zipping through the cave. We then jumped 15 feet into the freezing water, which was a little surreal because we were submerged for a minute with our helmet light still on casting an eerie glow in the water.
We walked chest deep in the water for a few minutes while the guide pointed out the cave formations, then we climbed into our inner tubes. We created a line by holding onto the feet of the person in back of us and lay back to stare at the glow worms, which had a greenish-blue glow and looked like star formations. After a while, we ditched the tubes to swim and float through the rest of the cave. At the end, we had the option to climb a waterfall - a great challenge to end a waterlogged day. I couldn't see the top and was literally placing my foot down and hoping to find a place to secure it while the water poured over me. The whole black water rafting experience is a unique activity you won't easily find elsewhere and a definite must for visitors to the North Island.
Black Water Rafting Info
THE LEDGE SKY SWING
Ah, the swing. Think bungy jumping meets a gigantic childhood rope swing hanging off the side of a mountain. Compared to my other New Zealand activities, I think it's the only other activity that rivals bungy jumping as the most heart stopping. Like the bungy, it's particularly challenging because you are the only one responsible for taking the plunge. Unlike skydiving or hang gliding, there is no tandem master to rely on. And unlike black water rafting and river boarding, there is no group of people engaging in the experience at the same time to help motivate you. You're all alone.
I'd heard so many stories about the mental challenge of the swing that I decided to save it for my very last night in New Zealand and booked it ahead of time to prevent any possibility of changing my mind. I headed to the check-in desk accompanied by some new friends I'd met river boarding that tagged along to see if I was insane enough to go through with it. Having others nearby made everything even more nerve-racking since there were now witnesses to make sure I didn't chicken out. (I have several sure-fire techniques to make sure I don't back down from thrills like these.)
The site is located next to the Ledge Bungy location, approximately 1,312 feet above Queenstown and situated against the side of a mountain. I had to walk out to the actual platform without my friends; it was rather like walking the gangplank on a pirate ship. I remembered a quote I'd heard earlier that week, "Be brave. Even if you aren't, pretend to be. No one can tell the difference." I handed my check-in card to the bungy master that ran the swing site and he helped me into a full-body harness. Some hard techno beat was pulsing from a stereo in the background. The bungy master asked me, "You're doing the swing? Aw, man, that's really scary! Even scarier than the bungy!" Thanks, guy. Just what I needed to hear.
He then walked me over to a separate platform for the "swingers." My palms were clammy as I looked off the platform and saw just how far down it was. The fear was overwhelming, despite all the other crazy things I'd done over the last few days. It seems your body never quite gets completely used to hurtling off bridges and such. I seriously considered leaping up and breaking into a full-fledged run-harness and all and getting as far away from the platform as possible. But then I'd lose my money, embarrass myself in front of my new friends, and always wonder what if. Peer pressure and prepayment are great things.
The bungy master strapped my harness into a few ropes that would serves as the "swing," had me sit on the edge of the platform, then lowered me down into a sitting position about nine feet below the platform. I was just sort of dangling there nothingness below, the mountain to my side, the platform above. And here's the part of the experience that is by far the scariest I have to be the one to pull the release rope and activate the free fall. I focused on that first pull, took a deep breath, had the bungy master count down for me. On "one," I yanked the rope and felt the most remarkable rush of adrenaline as I began to free-fall, then felt the tension in the rope cables kick in after about 65 feet and launch me into a huge arc. The swing carried me back and forth several times, often seeming like it was going to slam my body face-first against the side of the mountain. The rush and sense of accomplishment after completing the swing were indescribable. I had the biggest grin on my face for hours, and the high was still with me when I touched down on U.S. soil many hours later. Adrenaline is the greatest souvenir of all.
Ledge Sky Swing Info
- AJ Hackett in queenstown: www.ajhackett.com
- Ledge sky swing trips cost about NZ 85 (about US 43)
THE LOW DOWN
Where To Go
In New Zealand, Queenstown on the South Island is unquestionably the adventure capital and a backpacker's paradise. Travelers play very hard, and party even harder. Backpackers spend their days taking advantage of the extreme activities and their nights at Red Rock and The World, the two main traveler watering holes. If you're short of time and want a good base to experience a variety of activities without constantly being on the move, Queenstown in the answer. And if you're only able to visit the North Island, consider spending several days in Taupo a lakeside town with many similar activities to Queenstown.
The town of Franz Josef and Fox are the bases for glacier hikes and Kaikoura is one of the best places to swim with dolphins. Rotorua is the perfect place to learn about Maori culture and Christchurch is a great town with a British feel. Auckland is a typical big city and many travelers use it solely as a point of entry and exit.
Granted, it's a long trip to get down under, but one that's well worth it. With an exchange rate that nets you roughly two NZ dollars per American, you'll feel instantly rich. Explore your wild side, hop over to the land of Kiwis and try a few activities that'll give you the ultimate rush.
GETTING AROUND
Getting around either the North or South Island is pretty straightforward. There are good busses, and several backpacker-oriented bus companies.
Hop-on, Hop-off Backpacker Bus Companies
Tour Companies
Bus Lines
Photos by Tourism New Zealand, Carly Blatt
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