The Cold War-era embargo on Cuba makes it difficult for Americans to experience the real world of Buena Vista Social Club, with its gorgeous crumbling colonial buildings and Caribbean beaches. But it is possible to visit this largest of Caribbean islands, even though, with Congress flirting with lifting or weakening the trade and travel bans, and President Bush committed to enforcing them (travel.state.gov/cuba.html), it can be tough to figure out how. Under current guidelines, journalists, humanitarian workers, and those sponsored by religious and educational groups may apply to the U. S. Treasury Department (treas.gov/ofac) for a permit to visit this otherwise forbidden communist country, but there's no guarantee you'll get approved. Organizations such as the Center for Cross-Cultural Study (cccs.com), however, have permits to allow students to study in Havana. One thing is certain: Of the 180,000 Americans who visited Cuba last year, at least 25,000 did so without the permission of their government.

How did they do it? Easier than one might think.

You can book a flight to Cuba from virtually any non-U.S. country in the Western Hemisphere. In Cancun, for example, many travel stores specializing in Cuba can be found with relative ease. From these stores you could book a package of round-trip airfare, taxes, tourist card, and several nights accommodation in a budget-class hotel for as little as $300.

Once in Cuba, have the immigration officer stamp your tourist card not your passport as any proof you possess of the visit might lead to a fine as much as $50,000 and jail time when you return. Cuban Immigration will have no objection; after all, the country wants Americans to visit. Just remember, discretion is the key to a successful Cuba trip.

Photo by Carina Aho