The Olympics are coming home to Greece this summer, and it's going to be one hell of a show, with the mayor of Athens promising a party on every street corner.? But don't despair just because you missed the cut for the relay team and don't have three grand for all-inclusive tickets. You, too, can gather with athletes from all nations and do it cheap.
First, give Cartan Tours (800-360-2004; cartan.com) a shot. They're the official U.S. ticket brokers, and you might find a deal with them. Might.
It's also not impossible to organize things independently, as not all Olympic events sell out. If you're not choosy about what you see (softball prelims, anyone?), you can get last-minute tickets at the door, or from official (and unofficial) agencies in Athens, for as little as $14. To save even more cash, check out the big screens showing all the action in some of the squares in Athens (notably Syntagma, outside the parliament building). Join the partying crowds, and with the money you save, you'll be able to buy gyros for all your new friends.
Here's ten more ways to get into the Olympic spirit without breaking the bank or pumping yourself full of performance-enhancing drugs.
FOLLOW THE FLAME: The Olympic torch was lit at Olympia, site of the ancient Games, on March 25, Greek Independence Day. From there, runners carry it around the world, visiting past and prospective Olympic cities on every continent. The torch relay reaches Los Angeles on June 16, and hits St. Louis, Atlanta, and New York the following four days.
The flame returns to Greece, from Cyprus, on July 9, and will then pass through practically every town, village, and house in the country, with end-of-day celebrations (that is, copious eating, drinking, and dancing) planned all along the route. Join in at the Minoan palace of Knossos, Crete (7/9), the island of Santorini (7/14), Thessaloniki (7/23), ancient Delphi (8/3), Corfu (8/6), and, of course, Athens (8/12).
RETURN TO THE ROOTS: The first quadrennial Olympic Games were held in 776 B.C. and continued for 1,200 years, until spoilsport Roman emperor Theodosius banned them, objecting to their pagan origins. Events included discus, javelin, running, and long jump all represented at Athens 2004 (sadly, though, no chariot racing this year). Warring factions in ancient Greece reached a"sacred truce"? for the duration of the Games another tradition the U.N. wants to see revived.
Ancient Olympia itself is one of Greece's finest archaeological sites. Among the extensive ruins, you can still see the finish line of the sprint track and the judges seats. The site is a five-hour bus ride from Athens, but stay in the village of Olympia to visit early or late in the day, when it's not so crowded. Olympia Youth Hostel (30-26240-22580) charges $8 a night. There are also three campgrounds: Diana Camping (30-26240-22314) has a pool and is closest to the site.
MARATHON OF MARATHONS: After the Battle of Marathon in 490 B.C., in which 9,000 Greek soldiers inflicted a crushing defeat on the powerful Persian army, a messenger, Phidippides, was sent to Athens to announce the good news. After running all the way, he gasped out one word "Enikesame! ("We won!")” before dropping dead. Despite this lethal precedent, the Olympic marathon will follow in Phidippides's footsteps, starting in the small town of Marathonos.
The men's marathon is on the final day of the Games, August 29; the women's, a week earlier. The finish line is in Athens's original Olympic stadium, built for the first modern Games in 1896. Seats in the stadium will sell out, but elsewhere along the 26-mile route you can watch for free.
SEEK OUT SOCCER: Finding accommodations in Athens will be a nightmare, but Olympic events are being held in four other towns: Thessaloniki, Patras, Volos, and Iraklio, Crete. Okay, they've only got the early rounds of the soccer tournament, but the four are hugely proud to be Olympic cities. All are by the sea and have large student populations: Expect a fun, laidback atmosphere. America failed to qualify for the men's competition, but the women's team is in with a shout. Tickets start around $12, available in advance from the stadiums.
CATCH SOME CULTURE: Cultural events poetry recitals, choral singing, pig sacrificing were an important part of the ancient Olympics. Lots of cultural stuff is planned to tie in with this year's Games (no animal sacrifices, alas). The official Cultural Olympiad Website (cultural-olympiad.gr) has an up-to-date program of what's on.
The Greeks are particularly keen to remind us that they invented drama: Catch a classical tragedy at one of the country's 2,000-year-old amphitheaters. In Athens, there are performances at the Theater of Herodes Atticus on the slopes of the Acropolis. Epidavros, on the Peloponnese, is Greece's finest ancient theater. Ask for a seat near the back: They're half the price, and you'll still experience the magic of the theater's acoustics. There are buses from Athens on performance nights, or you can stay in nearby Nafplio, an elegant medieval port.
STROLL THE STREETS: Walking, even during the Olympics, is free. Unfortunately, Athens isn't known as a pedestrian-friendly city, but it is making a special effort for the Olympics. Seven themed routes, covering eight miles of walkways, streets, and squares, give you a rare chance to discover the city on foot while exploring such themes as "Athens Scripts, Landscapes Below Athens," and "Athens Faces."Along the way, you'll find films projected on the sides of buildings, light and sound installations, and archaeological excavations. Starting points are marked by 30-foot-tall "Olympic Landmarks." If you get lost, look out for the 20 large inflatable balloons hovering above the routes.
INVITATION TO INSOMNIA: Can't get a room for the night? Simple solution: Don't go to bed. Athens is one city that never sleeps (except on really hot afternoons). People don't even start thinking about dinner until 11 p.m., and the bars only close when the last customer leaves. All-night clubs range from trendy places spinning hip-hop or house to smoky dens with live rembetika (Greek-style blues) played on the bouzouki and locals dancing on (or under) tables. During the Olympics, Athens's brand-spanking-new metro will be running 24 hours a day. The Botanic Gardens, in the heart of the city, are the pleasantest place to catch up on sleep in the sunshine.
TRADITIONAL TRADING: Although people bemoan the commercialization of today's Olympics, trading was another important aspect of the ancient Games. In other words, you can go shopping with a clear Olympic conscience. Haggle for bargains at the flea market around Monastraki, where you'll find a gigantic, eclectic selection of things useful, useless, kitsch, cool, beautiful, and bizarre. Olympic merchandise is everywhere. If you've always wanted a Greek-god Beanie Baby, you're in luck: The official mascots are Phoebus and Athena. Their design was based on ancient Greek dolls, so don't call them shapeless and ugly.
In an unprecedented move, Athenian shopkeepers are sacrificing their siestas during the Olympics. Shops in "areas of Olympic interest"? will be open from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. during the week, and till 6 p.m. Saturdays. Sundays? You're kidding, right?
ATHLETIC ALTERNATIVES: Repulsed by the idea of "amateur" athletes with seven-figure sponsorship deals? Then the Nemean Games are the thing for you. The Games at Nemea, in the foothills of Arcadia, were up there with the Olympics in classical Greece. Nemea's partially restored ancient stadium will host its third re-enactment of its Games on the traditional date: the second full moon after the summer solstice. (That's July 31.)
There are two events: an 89-meter sprint on what's left of the original track, and a long-distance run. Winners will be crowned with wild celery no medals here. In one departure from tradition, women are allowed to join in. Perhaps because of this, athletes won't run naked, as in antiquity, but in non-brand-name woolen tunics. No shoes, though but according to those who've taken part, running on the same soil as the ancients is a real thrill. If it sounds like your idea of fun, then get your entry in by June 1. The Society for the Revival of the Nemean Games has all the details on its Website: nemeagames.gr.
Will Athens 2004 be the best Olympics ever, as the organizers are hoping? The Greeks you meet will be pleased to tell you that only in Greece can the Olympic spirit truly come to life. Privately, though, many will be relieved if the country doesn't have to organize the Games for another 108 (or even 2,000) years. But since you're not organizing it, don't sweat the logistics, the prices, or the hype. Do be sure to throw a toga into your backpack, and be ready to sprint to catch the train at the Athens station, just to get into the spirit.
Illustration by Matt Dujnic
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